By Tess Jewell-Larsen
(Article previously featured in the AHA International Newsletter “News from Abroad”)
Walking through San Francisco Park, coming from the west near Plaza de España and the government buildings, I could hear a slight wail of bagpipes. A woman in front of me rushed towards the ever increasing chatter of people and sing of bagpipes. Was I too late? Had the Royal Family already gone through? I thought as I watched her clip-clop in her three inch heals across the stone walkways of the park. When finally I turned the corner, around a great tree on the edge of the park, the volume of people surrounding the streets shocked me. They had to have come from all over Asturias just to see the procession of the Premios Príncipe de Asturias into the Teatro Campoamor.
Between me and Calle Uria there stood hundreds of people eagerly looking about. On the edge of the road, following all the way up from the Hotel Reconquista down to the Teatro Campoamor, stood one thousand bagpipers (I found out the number the next day), all piping away merrily to welcome the Prince of Asturias, his wife, and the Queen of Spain. Pushing through the crowds to get a better view, I noticed the bagpipers stood in groups, each group wearing slightly different traditional outfit with different colors. I assumed the differences showed the different regions of Asturias they came from, especially when I noticed one person per group holding a flag with a name written on it.
I watched from a slightly uncomfortable position, squashed in between a group of elderly women on one side and on the other middle aged men. The groups of bagpipers seemed to be taking turns; I thought perhaps they did so, so as not to overwhelm the ears of the fellow viewers, which I appreciated—bagpipes can get a little overpowering. As I stood there, more and more people jammed their bodies closer, cramming more and more people into places where they might get a glimpse of a waving hand within a car—or maybe just see the car itself. After a minute or two of being pushed around and nothing really happening on the streets I realized there was time to spare. I decided to push my way out of the crowds and to go sit down at a nearby café with friends for a few minutes.
As I walked back from the café I walked through the plaza across the street from Campoamor, where a large fountain splashes, and the statue of La Gorda (The Fat Lady) and her baby mark the common meeting spot in Oviedo. Hundreds of people squished onto the ledges of planters, tops of benches, and the ledge of the fountain—just to get a better look at the happenings on the street and in front of Campoamor. A line of young woman stood, giggling, on the edge of the fountain admiring the crowds around them, obviously pleased with their positions they secured. I walked around trying to find an opening on some ledge myself. I ended up squeezing into tiny spot on the top of a bench in the plaza, looking out over the street towards Campoamor. Camera ready, I waited. On my right, a huge screen showed close-ups of the parade of black cars coming towards us, towards Campoamor. Suddenly, the black cars come into view. Bagpipes start wailing all around; people are clapping, laughing, and waving to the occupants within the cars. One car, a black BMW I believe, in the middle of the procession held the Royal Family. I could only see them waving if I looked at the screen to my right. From my position on the bench, all I could see was the tops of people heads and the tops of the cars as they passed. My hand held high, I blindly took pictures of the procession, hoping that maybe one would come out.
With the help of the big screen, I saw the Prince, Princess, and Queen enter into Teatro Campoamor, and be greeted by the people within. And then, as if someone flipped a switch, people were leaving, or gone. There was actually space to stand on the floor of the plaza and see the big screen. I could have had the whole top of the bench to myself! The ledge of the fountain, however, now served as a seating spot for several elderly women who decided to stay on and watch the awards themselves. Most of the people who stayed to watch the awards were older adults. Very few young people stayed on to watch, and most of the bagpipes were silenced. Many of the bagpipers, however, stayed on the edges of the streets, conversing, waiting, for what I did not stay long enough to find out. I watched as speakers gave their opinion about issues in the world, or about their projects they have devoted themselves to. I laughed when the two American men, Martin Cooper and Raymond Samuel Tomlinson, receiving awards for their contributions to the improvement and investigation of technology, gaily walked out to the crowd, arms waiving ecstatically. We Americans are much more open to showing emotion in public, and I never noticed it so much until right then.
Many of the award winners smiled, bowed, or gave quick wave—nothing as exuberant as those two American men. A friend of mine once told me that one of her Spanish friend said, “Americans need to behave better in public, they shouldn’t be so excited.” And in response she replied, “We have more fun!”
The sky turned dark and the street lights lit the remaining crowds. I stayed until the Prince finished his speech, congratulating the work that had been done and was still being done. What a stunning experience, here in the beautiful city of Oviedo.
All photos courtesy of Tess Jewell-Larsen